◤Text and Images / iSee Taiwan Foundation Editorial Team
Taiwan's hot, humid climate has long left its people vulnerable to heatstroke and internal heat. In an era when formal medicine was scarce, early settlers turned to what the land offered—brewing ching tsao cha from herbs such as fish mint, grass jelly plant, barbat skullcap, and ku shen root (Sophora flavescens Aiton). These cooling infusions were meant to clear heat, purge toxins, and carry people through the summer. Rooted in the age-old belief that food and medicine are one, ching tsao cha found its natural home in Bangka, the neighborhood now known as Wanhua District—Taipei's oldest quarter.
Located on Lane 224 of Xichang Street in Wanhua, Herb Lane earned its name from the concentration of herbal vendors that has defined it for more than a century. During the Qing-governed period, Bangka was a thriving center of commerce and religious life. As Longshan Temple drew ever-larger crowds and the surrounding markets flourished, herbal shops multiplied along the temple grounds, becoming indispensable to pilgrims and local residents alike. Illness was common then, and modern medicine far out of reach. People drew divination lots at Longshan Temple—each slip corresponding to an herbal remedy—and then sought out the prescribed ingredients from nearby shops. In time, the lane earned a second name: "Life-Saving Street." Among its most storied establishments is Sizhi Herbal Shop, with more than 130 years of history. "Sizhi"—meaning "four knowings"—recalls the words of Yang Zhen, an upright minister of the Eastern Han dynasty: "Heaven knows, earth knows, you know, I know." The name speaks to the shop's founding principles: honest trade and uncompromising ingredient quality.
The Decline of an Industry and the Practice of Cultural Regeneration
Herb Lane was never merely a marketplace. It was a crossroads of faith and everyday life. Herb tea cooled laborers through long working days and accompanied temple-goers as they completed their pilgrimages—a drink that restored body and spirit alike. The food culture rooted here reflects something enduring: ordinary people's abiding faith in the healing power of what they consumed.
Change came gradually, then all at once. Taiwan's National Health Insurance system launched in the 1990s, bringing modern medical care within reach of nearly everyone. Hand-shaken drinks swept the island around the same time, and the herbal industry entered a steep decline. Herb Lane grew quiet for years. Recovery came slowly: the Taipei City Government undertook restoration and cultural revitalization efforts, and in 2015 the lane was designated a city-listed historic site, drawing renewed public interest. Vendors adapted, too—shifting from selling raw herbs to centering their offerings on ching tsao cha in new forms: tea bags, popsicles, chilled drinks, and even herbal-coffee crossovers that caught the eye of younger customers. These reinventions are cultural regeneration in practice.
