Some of these preferences make practical sense: duck eggshells are thicker and less prone to cracking, and their larger yolks yield salted eggs with better quality and heft. Others don't: why is duck considered more restorative, more warming to the body than chicken? Sure, duck meat holds up well in a long-simmered hot pot—but wouldn't a decent free-range chicken work just as well? No matter. Tradition has decided: when winter calls for warming your bones, it's jiangmu ya or nothing.

Despite its higher price point, duck commands a loyal following, and purveyors continue introducing premium varieties. The renowned Cherry Valley duck descends from Pekin duck through selective breeding; introduced to Taiwan in recent years, it takes its name from Cherry Valley Farms in Lincolnshire, England, the world's largest meat duck breeding operation.

Cherry Valley, Rose, Shimei, and Jade Dew Ducks

Changhua County ranks among Taiwan's top duck-raising regions. Beyond its flagship Cherry Valley ducks, duck farmers have introduced meigui duck (Rose), shimei duck (Shimei), and yulu duck (Jade Dew)—each bred for distinct meat characteristics—to capture different market segments.

Taiwan's duck farming and consumption stretch back centuries; the Qing-era General History of Taiwan documented the presence of Muscovy ducks. Taiwan's culinary landscape offers a diverse array of duck preparations: night market staples like yashang (sugarcane-smoked duck) and duck wings, plus roast duck originating from China—all now woven seamlessly into everyday Taiwanese dining.

Taiwan's duck consumption spans over 300 years. The Taiwan Gazetteer documented several varieties: Muscovy ducks, lu ducks, among others. Today's farmed ducks fall into two categories: meat ducks and egg-laying ducks. Meat ducks include gai duck, Pekin duck, Muscovy duck, and mule duck; egg-laying ducks are predominantly brown Tsaiya ducks.

Duck farming once defined the rural Taiwanese landscape. The 1965 Taiwanese film Beautiful Duckling captures the scale of Taiwan's early duck industry in vivid detail. Today, duck farming concentrates in Yunlin, Pingtung, and Changhua counties, with mule ducks as the predominant breed.