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日月老茶廠──從產量導向到尊重土地的轉型

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日月老茶廠曾見證紅茶外銷的輝煌與沉寂,2003年毅然啟動有機轉型,以自然農法修護土地,將紅玉紅茶的薄荷肉桂香氣,轉化為深度飲食體驗與永續生活的文化基地。

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坐落於南投魚池鄉的日月老茶廠成立於1956年,前身為台灣農林公司的魚池茶場,是日月潭紅茶產業的重要核心。這棟走過一甲子的老建築,曾見證台灣紅茶外銷的風光年代,卻也隨著產業式微,走入沉寂。當紅茶出口市場萎縮,茶廠一度僅剩五位製茶師苦撐。門市店長童士軒回憶,那是一個「世界正在改變」的時刻,過去仰賴大量生產、批發導向的慣行農法,不僅難以維持生計,也逐漸對周邊山林生態造成壓力。

2003年起,日月老茶廠啟動關鍵轉型。茶園決定全面停止使用化肥與農藥,重新思考茶與環境的關係,並成為取得慈心有機認證(編按:由慈心有機驗證公司提供的台灣有機農產品驗證,確保無化學農藥肥料,獲美歐雙認證)的茶園。童士軒指出,轉型後的核心不再是追求產量,而是回到土地本身。自然農法讓茶樹與雜草共生,雖然產能下降,卻換來更純淨、層次分明的茶湯風味。

建築與自然的共生智慧

對自然的尊重,也體現在茶廠空間的保存方式。日月老茶廠採取「修舊如舊」的原則,完整保留1950年代的藍色木造窗框,這裡同時也是電視劇《茶金》的取景地。其中最具代表性的,是名為「卷軸窗」的設計。這並非單純的美學語彙,而是為了順應山勢,將自然山風導入室內,協助完成製茶過程中關鍵的「走水」(指新鮮茶葉自然或強制失水過程)工法。

今日的日月老茶廠,已由單一加工場域轉型為結合製茶、生態與飲食體驗的文化基地。來訪者不僅能參與導覽,更可透過品茗,細細感受「紅玉」(台茶18號)所展現的薄荷、肉桂與淡淡花香。茶廠也發展出多款以紅茶為核心的飲食應用,例如以紅玉紅茶沖煮的冷泡茶、紅茶拿鐵,以及搭配茶湯風味設計的茶點。讓茶不只是被「喝」,而是成為一種可被咀嚼、回味的風土語言。這種融合慢活的生活哲學,不僅深受台灣人喜愛,也成功吸引外國觀光客。

從輝煌、沉寂到重生,日月老茶廠不只是當地人的記憶,更希望能將這穿越時空般的美好滋味,代代相傳,成為台灣共有的文化資產。

☛  日月老茶廠獲選為「文化部第一屆百大文化基地」

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