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台灣苦茶油──山林間孕育出的珍貴食用油

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苦茶油曾一度被遺忘,近年來重新得到大眾關注。這種由台灣原生油茶樹榨取的珍貴油品,不僅發煙點高、高於橄欖油,營養價值更是豐富。

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灣栽種的油茶樹主要分為兩類:一是原生種小果油茶(Camellia brevistyla,短柱山茶),多生長於低海拔山坡地;另一是大果油茶(Camellia oleifera),適應於較高海拔的山區環境。

其中台灣原生種小果油茶需4年開始開花結實,7年才能穩定盛產,果實成熟需約300天,每10公斤生果(含果殼)約可乾燥成4.2公斤茶籽,再榨出約1公斤茶油,產油極其稀少。 

根據2023年農業部資料,目前台灣油茶種植面積約1,600公頃,主要分布於中北部與東部山區,包括新北、桃竹苗、南投信義與花蓮富里等地。日本時代油茶樹曾作為造林樹種廣泛種植,1945年前後種植面積已達3,000公頃。隨著農業轉型,苦茶油曾一度式微,直到近年健康與食安意識提升,才重新受到矚目。

▋不只食用,更是保養品 

苦茶油製作過程繁複,需待果實成熟後採收,經曝曬、脫殼、壓榨、過濾等多道工序,才能得到清澈透亮的油品,其色澤呈金黃色帶微綠。苦茶果外殼略帶苦味,但榨出的油卻無苦澀,反而帶有淡淡植物香氣。其營養價值可媲美橄欖油,且具兩大優勢:其一,單元不飽和脂肪酸比例更高;其二,發煙點約252℃,高於橄欖油,更符合台灣熱炒料理的烹飪需求。此外,苦茶油富含約80%單元不飽和脂肪酸(油酸)、約10%多元不飽和脂肪酸,並含有維生素A、E及茶多酚等,具有抗氧化等效益。 

苦茶油在傳統家庭常被視為營養價值高的滋養品,特別是病後調養與產後護理的傳統滋補油品。後來逐漸融入日常飲食,發展出茶油雞、茶油拌麵線與茶油拌飯等家常料理。而在當代,業者更進一步開發茶油皂、護膚油等產品,延伸到生活保養領域。 

如今,各地小農團體以自然農法復育油茶林,如苗栗、台東等地,嘉義梅山茶油合作社更以「冷壓、純榨、無添加」工法,成功拓展國際市場,外銷日本、美國與澳洲。 

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