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Millet Wine: Reserved for Those Who Have Served

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Millet wine appeared early in Taiwan, with indigenous peoples maintaining a long history of brewing this traditional beverage. During the Kangxi era of the Qing Dynasty, Yu Yonghe, who traveled through Taiwan, documented in his Small Sea Travel Diaries: Indigenous Zhuzhici Verses (17 of 24) that indigenous peoples used saliva in their wine-making process. Similar records can also be found in the Zhuluo County Gazetteer and Records of Official Raft Missions to Taiwan. This reveals that the earliest millet wine used saliva as a fermentation starter—a practice shared by indigenous brewing cultures worldwide.

◤Text / iSee Taiwan Foundation Editorial Team

Millet wine stands as one of the defining elements of Taiwan's indigenous culinary culture—not merely a fine brew, but a vessel carrying cultural heritage and collective memory. In indigenous traditions, millet serves as a vital staple grain, while millet wine holds sacred significance across various ceremonial practices.For instance, before the Amis harvest festival, elders dip their fingers into millet wine and sprinkle it onto the ground three times, honoring heaven, earth, and ancestral spirits before the community may partake in drinking.

A vessel carrying culture and memory

The Bunun people rely on dream divination for all matters, conducting corresponding rituals from millet planting through harvest, including customs of offering millet wine to heaven, earth, and ancestral spirits. For the Paiwan tribe, millet wine brewing represents a significant duty of women—they must undergo purification rituals before production begins. During harvest festivals when the wine is ceremonially opened, community members sample and select the finest millet wine.

Historically, consuming millet wine held great significance within each tribe. Among the Amis, not everyone could partake—only those who had rendered service to the community earned the privilege of enjoying this precious brew. Today, with modern advances, millet wine production has evolved considerably, becoming an important souvenir that tribes sell to tourists.

Dedicated young tribal members now carry forward their ancestors' craft, not only brewing millet wine from Taiwan's native millet varieties but also employing scientific monitoring throughout the fermentation process. They've taken their products to international competitions, earning widespread acclaim and prestigious awards. Moving forward, Taiwan's millet wine—this deeply representative expression of indigenous culture—will continue passing from generation to generation.

Note: Names of varieties, publications, and individuals without established English equivalents are rendered using pinyin transliteration; refer to the original Chinese text for authoritative spellings.

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