Jiu-ceng-ta: Unmistakably Taiwanese

This aromatic herb carries an impressive pedigree, with cultivation records stretching back 5,000 years to ancient India. Known by various names across different regions, its scientific name Ocimum traces back to the Greek word ozo, meaning "scent" or "fragrance"—a fitting etymology for this powerfully scented cultivar.

Taiwan's beloved jiu-ceng-ta gets its poetic name from its distinctive layered flower spikes that resemble a pagoda. The nine-layer isn't literal—in Chinese culture, nine symbolizes abundance, capturing the plant's prolific, stacked blooms. While not native to Taiwan, this aromatic herb has deep island roots. Most likely introduced by the Dutch colonists in the 17th century, it gradually adapted to Taiwan's unique climate and soil, evolving into a distinct local variety that's become essential to Taiwanese cuisine.

Two Varieties: Red for Sanbei, Green for Broths

Taiwan's jiu-ceng-ta comes in two distinct varieties, each with its own culinary calling. Red-stemmed jiu-ceng-ta, with its deep purple stalks and robust aroma, is the star of Taiwan's iconic three-cup (sanbei) dishes. The green-stemmed variety (also called white-stem jiu-ceng-ta) offers a cleaner, more delicate fragrance that shines in clear broths and soups. You'll also find it nestled among crispy fried chicken at night markets, where its fresh notes cut through rich, fried flavors.

Despite their different appearances and uses, genetic molecular markers reveal both varieties as uniquely Taiwanese cultivars, distinct from other global basil species. These sun-loving herbs thrive in Taiwan's central and southern regions.

In Taiwan, jiu-ceng-ta and luo-le (basil) are distinct ingredients. Basil typically means sweet basil—the gentle, fragrant herb that graces Italian dishes with its softer, more delicate flavor profile compared to the robust red-stemmed jiu-ceng-ta. Meanwhile, Thai holy basil, used in pad kra pao, is called da-pao-ye in Chinese, a phonetic translation from Thai. Three languages, three names, one aromatic family finding its way into kitchens across Asia.