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空心菜─暗示「有心招待,無心留客」

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原產於東南亞的空心菜,約於中國宋代時傳至東亞,北宋的《嘉祐補注本草》中即以「蕹菜」之名留下紀錄。

◤文.圖/看見台灣基金會編輯群

心菜因為莖部中空而得名,至於名為蕹菜則有幾種說法:其一是自海外傳入時「番舶以甕盛之歸,故又名甕菜」;其二則是栽種時只需將土覆蓋莖節處即可發根生長,「蕹與壅同。此菜惟以壅成,故謂之壅」;台語或客家話則以「蕹菜」稱之。

空心菜喜歡溫暖的氣候環境,在台灣四季皆產。除了北台灣的冬季外,各地全年都適合栽種,其中又以彰化、雲林、嘉義和屏東地區為主要產地。 

空心菜葉新鮮時脆嫩多汁、沒有苦味,因為產量高、價格便宜而成為麵館、餐館中燙青菜最常見的蔬菜之一。 

▋普渡拜拜供桌上的空心菜,象徵有心招待無心留客 

在台灣唾手可得,但空心菜在歐美等會下雪的地方,就成為嬌貴的蔬菜,甚至有錢也吃不到,使空心菜成為海外遊子返鄉時的「鄉愁系美食」,利用機會大啖各種空心菜料理。 

中元普渡拜拜,供桌上就算擺滿了從牲禮到糕點等豐富的供品,但都還是一定少不了空心菜。

這是因為在早期經濟不優渥的年代,空心菜因為便宜,成了招待好兄弟最容易的一道料理。而空心菜的「空心」,又隱含著和好兄弟「不交心」,暗示「有心招待,無心留客」。

供桌上的空心菜只能汆燙一下下,半生不熟即可,象徵彼此「不熟」,希望好兄弟們趕緊上路,不要留戀現世。 

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