logo icon
Story of the Day
logo icon
search icon

水餃──來自外省家庭的年味麵食

share
Facebook Share IconLine Share IconCopy Link Icon
1949年隨著移民來台的北方各種麵食,已融入台灣日常。其中,象徵辭舊迎新的水餃,從除夕「元寶」習俗演變為冷凍庫必備良伴。這款皮薄餡多的美味,不僅承載跨族群記憶,更在國際舞台展現台灣飲食文化魅力。

◤文.圖/看見台灣基金會編輯群

攤開台灣這座移民之島的歷史,飲食始終是最貼近日常的文化印記。1949年後,隨國民政府遷台的一百多萬外省移民中,許多人來自山東、山西、河南、河北等大陸北方省分,以麵食為主食。當這些人分散落腳於台灣各地,原本屬於北方的麵食文化,也逐漸融入島嶼的飲食節奏。而在許多外省家庭裡,除夕夜桌上一定要出現的,正是一鍋熱騰騰的水餃。

過年吃元寶,年年進寶

除夕夜吃水餃的習俗源自北方年俗,「餃」與「交」諧音,象徵「歲更交子」──指農曆除夕子時(午夜11點至1點),新舊歲交替的時刻,寓意辭舊迎新、福氣交接。水餃外型如元寶,也被視為招財進寶的吉祥象徵。有些家庭至今仍保留傳統,會在包餃子時隨機放入一枚清洗乾淨的硬幣,除夕夜誰吃到,便象徵新的一年好運臨門。

北方有句諺語說:「舒服不過倒(躺)著,好吃不過餃子。」水餃的魅力也在於餡料的高度包容性。從最常見的高麗菜豬肉、韭菜豬肉,到薺菜(一種野菜)牛肉、魚蝦餡,只要一張麵皮、一鍋滾水,便能成就一頓溫暖踏實的飯食。來到台灣後,水餃也逐漸在地化,成為冷凍庫裡的日常備糧,陪伴不同世代度過忙碌或團圓的時刻。

放眼世界,各地也都有屬於自己的餃子文化:波蘭的 Pierogi 可以是甜口,土耳其的 Manti 則以細小精緻著稱。近年,台灣冷凍水餃憑藉皮薄餡多、口味多元,進軍海外市場,在國外超市貨架上占有一席之地。從移民餐桌上的年節象徵,到輸出世界的家常美味,水餃已悄悄成為台灣飲食文化中,一種跨族群共享的年味記憶。

Explore more
馬祖紅糟魚湯──冬令取暖的閩東藥膳風味
馬祖擁有一碗獨特的湯品,能以最純粹的方式溫暖身心,那便是傳承自閩東文化的「紅糟魚湯」。 這碗湯品不僅是冬日的溫暖,更承載著馬祖人與海洋、老酒共生的智慧。
The Cheese of the East: Taiwan's Centuries-Old Fermented Bean Curd
Walk into any traditional market or grocery store in Taiwan, and you'll find rows of glass jars filled with fermented tofu (doufu ru 豆腐乳) or bean curd—known as "the cheese of the East." This fermented delicacy is more than a condiment; it's a cultural vessel connecting community memories with everyday life. From the crimson red variety in military dependents' village kitchens to the pale white variety passed down through Hakka generations, each carries its own community story. (Photo source:iStock)
Renowned Spanish Chef Living in Taiwan Foreign Land, Hometown Flavors: A Spanish Chef's Slow Food Notes from Yilan
A Spanish chef, upon first arriving in Taiwan, was immediately captivated by the island's abundant local ingredients. Over his 17 years living in Taiwan, he has personally visited markets, farms, and fishing ports, discovering the limitless potential of Taiwanese produce. Drawing from Spain's culinary revolution as an example, he encourages the public to support local producers and work together to drive innovation in Taiwanese cuisine. (Photo source: Daniel Negreira)