The story begins with ambition and necessity. Under Japanese colonial forestry policies, mountain railways sprang up across Taiwan's logging sites to extract valuable timber from remote highlands. These lines didn't merely transport logs; they carved pathways through Taiwan's economic development, leaving behind railway heritage that distinguished the island's industrial history.

Most of these historic logging railways have long since ceased operations—their routes vanished into overgrown forests or absorbed into the passenger-carrying Taiwan Railways system. Today, the Alishan Forest Railway stands alone as the only line maintaining substantial intact trackage and active operations.

Historical records reveal early recognition of the railway's allure. A 1935 itinerary for Korean Crown Prince Yi Un's Taiwan visit documented his journey to Alishan aboard the forest railway's VIP carriage. That century-old excursion, once reserved for royalty, became today's classic route. Two years later, the Governor-General designated Alishan as a national park, cementing its status as one of Taiwan's defining tourist destinations. This 71.4-kilometer narrow-gauge railway climbs from Chiayi's plains at 30 meters above sea level to the Alishan Forest Recreation Area at 2,216 meters, threading through diverse ecosystems and climate zones. Built initially to transport precious timber, it has transformed into a vital tourism asset.

Along the route, attractions like Fenqihu and Shenmu (Sacred Tree) Station complement Alishan's five renowned wonders—sunrise vistas, seas of clouds, the forest railway itself, high-mountain tea plantations, and cherry blossoms—drawing countless visitors year-round.

The tea plantations exemplify this appeal. Tea Farm No. 35, located in Alishan, has earned multiple awards at high-altitude tea competitions, including an Excellence Award in the 2022 spring competition; Daming Tea Factory took top honors in the 2021 winter contest. These accolades have established high-mountain tea gardens as essential stops on the Alishan tourist circuit.

The Alishan Forest Railway features numerous attractions along its route; pictured here is the distinctive Fenqihu Station. (Image source: unsplash)

A Century-Old Engineering Marvel Carrying Taiwan's Memories

Since opening in 1912, the Alishan Forest Railway has become living cultural history in Taiwan's railway heritage, recognized as one of the island's 18 potential World Heritage sites. This resilient line faced its greatest challenge in 2009 when Typhoon Morakot caused severe damage, suspending operations for 15 years.

After extensive restoration, the railway finally achieved full-line operation in 2024.

Travelers can now board in downtown Chiayi and ride directly to the terminus at Zhaoping Station, experiencing once again the journey that has captivated visitors for over a century. From lowlands to highlands, the route passes industrial heritage sites documenting Taiwan's development alongside ingenious railway engineering solutions. At Beimen Station, the Chiayi Sawmill preserves remnants of Taiwan's largest lumber mill from the Japanese colonial era; further along, Luman Station features an old Osaka-style tobacco barn, a relic of the colonial-era tobacco industry.

At Zhangnaoliao Station, the distinctive switchback design employs X-shaped track configurations for trains to pass each other; at Dulishan Station, a spiral route sends trains circling the mountain as they climb; between First and Second Switchback, passengers experience the switchback design where trains appear to "hit the wall" before reversing direction.

To conquer steep elevations and challenging mountain terrain, the Alishan Forest Railway employs multiple engineering solutions—a masterwork showcasing the pinnacle of railway construction.

Hidden Wonders Along the Railway Line

Along the Forest Railway, small stations harbor scenic treasures waiting to be discovered.

Liyuanliao Station in Meishan Township features Miharashidai (View Overlooking Platform) established during the Japanese colonial period, where visitors can admire local orchards, tea gardens, and bamboo groves. Come summer, the station transforms into a prime firefly watching destination. At night, the silent tracks come alive as fireflies dance like stars fallen into the forest—an otherworldly experience akin to floating through cosmic space.

At the terminus, Zhaoping Station showcases a contemporary design by Japanese architect Igarashi Nobuo that incorporates traditional Japanese architectural elements, echoing Alishan's natural landscape and forestry heritage. Located within Alishan National Forest Recreation Area, Zhaoping Station provides access to numerous renowned attractions. A leisurely one- or two-day visit allows travelers to experience all five of Alishan's celebrated wonders.

A short walk from Zhaoping Station, Ogasawarayama Viewing Platform offers sweeping views capturing the undulating ridgelines of the Yushan mountain range—a scene worthy of a master painter's canvas. Paired with the radiant glory of sunrise, this vista ranks among Alishan's unmissable spectacles.

A short distance away, the century-old Ziyun Temple features an observation deck overlooking Tashan Mountain. At sunset, golden light illuminates roiling seas of clouds—a breathtaking spectacle that draws photographers seeking the perfect twilight shot.

Beyond scenery, the area preserves historical sites chronicling Alishan's forestry legacy. The Alishan Hotel, originally the Alishan Logging Camp clubhouse, established 1913 Jiushisuo (Old Affairs Place) within its century-old cypress structure, restoring the building's former gift shop and displaying precious artifacts. The recently restored Alishan VIP Guest House, once accommodation for Japanese royalty and high-ranking officials, has been preserved and designated a Chiayi County heritage site, quietly narrating the storied grandeur of Alishan's forestry era.

Sunrise—one of Alishan's five celebrated wonders. (Image: unsplash)

Venturing into Cou Indigenous Villages

For deeper immersion into Alishan's local culture, consider disembarking at Shizilu Station on the descent, opening a new chapter of branch-line exploration. Shizilu Station lives up to its name, which translates as "crossroads."

One of the first stations restored after the typhoon, it has become a vital hub for young Alishan residents returning home to start businesses. The station connects to forest trails leading to Duolin Station, forming a loop route that combines hiking and rail travel—ideal for a day trip.

For extended stays, the Cou settlement of Deenyana community offers a tranquil mountain retreat. Often described as "Taiwan's gassho-style village" for its distinctive architecture, this hidden hamlet features small shops run by Cou residents selling sourdough bread, Indigenous grilled dishes, and local specialties. A short drive from Deenyana to Laiji Village brings travelers to Fuzu Shengshan Market, a new venture by the Laiji Community Development Association showcasing crops from Cou smallholder farmers and creations by Cou artists.

These meaningful spaces where interesting people converge have become gathering places where mountain residents and travelers forge connections.