◤Text and Images / iSee Taiwan Foundation Editorial Team
The so-called "native goose," Taiwan's Chinese goose, comes in two varieties: brown and white. These birds descended from stock brought over by early settlers from China three to four centuries ago. After generations of geographic isolation, they gradually diverged from their mainland cousins. Though they now represent less than 3% of Taiwan's goose population, their lean build and flavorful meat have made them a beloved staple in Hakka cuisine. Farmers in Taoyuan City, Hsinchu County, and Miaoli County continue to raise these birds for their superior taste and texture.
A Steady Market for Goose
In earlier times, farming families commonly raised chickens, ducks, and geese in their backyards for household consumption. The cacophony of honking and clucking brought a sense of abundance and domestic joy. The 1962 romance film The Royal Society (金鳳銀鵝) captured that era's intimate relationship with these birds. Today, industrial farming has relocated geese from backyards to commercial operations; homes have grown quieter, but they've also lost that lively, bustling energy. What remains in the cultural lexicon is the term "dumb goose" (tai-thâu-gô, 呆頭鵝)—Taiwanese slang for a romantically clueless guy.
Taiwan's goose farming industry peaked in 2014 with 1.2 million birds in production. As of late 2022, the island maintained over 1.07 million geese, processing 4.41 million birds annually and generating approximately NT$2.48 billion in revenue. Yunlin County alone accounts for roughly 400,000 birds—40% of the nation's supply.
Goose maintains a dedicated customer base in Taiwan. Offal cuts—gizzards, intestines, necks, feet, and hearts—commonly appear in luwei (braised delicacies) stalls and offal soups, retaining solid market value. While goose specialty shops are less common than other street food vendors, they sustain loyal followings. Some renowned establishments have even earned spots in the Michelin Bib Gourmand rankings.
