◤Text and Images / iSee Taiwan Foundation Editorial Team
Indigenous peoples regard millet as a sacred element essential to harvest ceremonies. Many tribes continue to maintain traditional rituals such as the Harvest Festival and Millet Festival, expressing gratitude to the divine for the abundance of crops. Millet also symbolizes wealth—among the Bunun people, the quantity of millet spread out for drying represents a family's prosperity, with larger amounts symbolizing greater familial wealth.
Millet served as a primary staple crop for Taiwan's indigenous peoples in early times. Different ethnic groups and tribes developed their own traditional millet-based dishes, including Abai (阿粨, a type of millet dumpling) prepared by the Paiwan, Rukai, and Pinuyumayan tribes, while the Bunun people are known for their large-pot millet rice preparations. Within indigenous communities, millet is not consumed individually but must be shared collectively. The most common practices involve fermenting millet into alcoholic beverages or preparing millet dumplings to distribute among family and friends.
Young Tribal Members Return Home to Revive Endangered Millet Culture
With the advancement of modern agriculture and changing living conditions, indigenous peoples' primary staple has been replaced by other crops. Millet cultivation faces increasing challenges: an aging farmer population, difficult seeding processes, labor-intensive weeding requirements, and severe bird damage. Millet production has become increasingly difficult. Taiwan's total millet cultivation area has fallen to less than 100 hectares in 2022.
In recent years, a movement of young tribal members returning to their ancestral lands has emerged, combining traditional agricultural wisdom with modern farming techniques. Through hands-on farming activities, local farmers markets, and local concerts, these initiatives have raised public awareness of indigenous millet culture. Millet field tours and crop workshops have also become options for international travelers seeking immersive experiences during their visits to Taiwan.
Some young tribal members have approached cultural preservation through cuisine innovation. For example, millet donuts made with millet flour instead of wheat flour and dusted with powdered sugar after frying, creating a crispy exterior and chewy interior texture reminiscent of fried mochi (rice cake). This dish exemplifies how indigenous culinary traditions are being reimagined for contemporary palates.
