"Going to Yilan? Don't forget your umbrella!" There’s a good reason for the advice. Located in northeastern Taiwan, Yilan County is bordered by the Snow Mountain Range to the west and the Central Mountain Range to the south. These mountain barriers capture moisture from three directions, bringing the region over 200 rainy days annually. Thanks to nature's generous endowment of rainfall, rivers, and springs, the Lanyang Plain thrives with abundant water. As surface water permeates the soil, it forms subsurface water that acts as a natural underground reservoir, providing reliable irrigation during summer dry seasons. Yilan stands as Taiwan's only county without a reservoir that never faces water shortages—a distinction that has given rise to pristine mountain forests and exceptional local ingredients.

Extended knowledge: Subsurface water

Subsurface water (also known as hyporheic water) flows through gravel beds beneath and alongside rivers and lakes. As it filters naturally through sand and stones, turbidity drops dramatically, producing clean, clear water. Taiwan began developing subsurface water infrastructure during the Japanese colonial period. The Shengou Water Purification Plant in Yuanshan Township has served Yilan for nearly a century. Drawing from Shengou's subsurface water reserves, it supplies stable, clean water to Yilan City, Zhuangwei, Yuanshan, Jiaoxi, and Toucheng.

Spanning 23 hectares, Shengou is Taiwan's largest water purification plant. Yet the treatment facilities occupy only a fraction of the site—more than half remains preserved as open green space and ecological wetlands. This deliberate design protects the environment and ensures Yilan's water resources remain sustainable for generations to come.

Good Water Grows Sanxing Scallions: From Street Stalls to Michelin Kitchens

Water connects the lives, livelihoods, and ecosystems of Yilan's people, forming the foundation of the region's a deep-rooted culture shaped by water.

Take Sanxing scallions, for example. This variety thrives in Sanxing Township, nourished by snowmelt from the Snow Mountain Range. The Lanyang Plain's shale geology provides excellent natural filtration, while dramatic day-night temperature swings create ideal growing conditions. These scallions develop exceptionally long white stems, delicate fibers, and a crisp texture that turns mild and sweet when cooked—qualities that have won over food lovers everywhere.

The fame of Sanxing scallions has sparked farm experiences that let visitors pull scallions, wash them, and make fresh scallion pancakes. The sight of farmers sitting beside square washing pools outside their homes, gently brushing soil from white stems before peeling away membranes and yellowed leaves, has become iconic—a living portrait of Yilan's agricultural heritage.

Once cleaned, Sanxing scallions find their way into kitchens ranging from roadside vendors to Michelin-starred restaurants and luxury hotel dining rooms. Throughout Sanxing, Jiaoxi, and Toucheng Townships, you'll discover exceptional scallion pancakes—crispy golden exteriors yielding to generous fillings of juicy, aromatic Sanxing scallions. They're well worth seeking out.

Besides these famed scallions, Yilan's abundant rainfall and natural drainage have made it Taiwan's kumquat capital. Nine out of every ten kumquats grown in Taiwan come from Yilan, particularly from Yuanshan and Jiaoxi Townships. Villages like Linmei and Erjie in Jiaoxi, along with Dahu, Zhenshan, and the Neicheng Leisure Agriculture Area in Yuanshan, have become the heart of this industry. During the 1970s, exports to Japan brought golden years to local growers. Most of Yilan's kumquats are the Nagami variety, whose tart flesh is typically preserved as candied fruit, transforming the sharp acidity into a balanced sweet-and-sour treat.

Nourished by snowmelt from the Snow Mountain Range, Sanxing scallions (Allium fistulosum) develop exceptionally long white stems with delicate fibers that turn mild and crisp when cooked—qualities beloved by food enthusiasts in Yilan, Taiwan. (Image: Getty)

Rice-Duck Farming: Cultivating Premium Rice and Flavorful Duck

Yilan's farmers don't simply rely on natural abundance—they've developed ingenious systems to build their culinary treasury. Through rice-duck farming, they nurture their land sustainably. During fallow periods, mature ducks paddle through flooded fields; their webbed feet churn the soil, suppressing weeds while their droppings enrich the earth as natural fertilizer.

After rice seedlings are transplanted, young ducklings are released into the paddies. They feast on weeds, pests, and rapidly-reproducing golden apple snails, eliminating the need for chemical pesticides and fertilizers. The rice grows plump and full, cooking into fragrant, perfectly textured grains. Meanwhile, the ducks grow robust and develop rich, flavorful meat—prized by restaurants and food stalls throughout the region.

Yilan farmers nurture their land through sustainable rice-duck farming practices on the Lanyang Plain. (Image: Getty)

Abundant Waters: A Year-Round Aquatic Playground

Yilan's water wealth extends far beyond the dining table. Jiaoxi has long been famous for its hot springs; during the Japanese colonial period, public bathhouses and inns were established here, launching the area's hot spring industry. In recent years, the township has been designated a special hot spring tourism zone.

Jiaoxi's springs stay below 60°C (140°F), cool enough for farmers to channel the mineral-rich water into fields. They cultivate hot spring water spinach, tomatoes, other vegetables, flowers, and rice—a practice unique among Taiwan's hot spring regions. The mineral content allows farmers to regulate field temperatures throughout the seasons, producing vegetables that grow exceptionally well and taste crisp, sweet, and tender.

Hot springs have drawn visitors to Jiaoxi, Yilan, since the Japanese colonial era. Today it's a designated hot spring tourism zone featuring unique agricultural applications. (Image: Getty)


On the opposite end of the temperature spectrum, coastal Su'ao Township boasts an equally remarkable water feature. The township's abundant rainfall, combined with thick limestone formations, has created rare cold springs. These colorless, odorless carbonic acid springs maintain a constant 22°C (72°F) year-round. Together with Jiaoxi's hot springs, Su'ao's cold springs form two natural treasures hidden beneath the Lanyang Plain.

When bathers enter Su'ao's cold springs, fine bubbles rise continuously from the pool floor—like being immersed in sparkling water. The carbonic acid content creates water with unusual density, used both for bottling ramune (Japanese marble soda) and making yokan (sweet bean jelly) with a silky texture and satisfying bite—a favorite local treat.

Each season brings distinctive experiences that reveal different facets of Yilan. Spring's Green Expo celebrates environmental stewardship through educational exhibits and hands-on activities. Summer's internationally acclaimed Children's Folklore and Folkgame Festival offers water play and nostalgic games—a paradise for beating the heat. Autumn invites visitors to explore the Forever Young Festival, celebrating vitality and wisdom, while winter's Hot Spring Season draws crowds seeking warmth and relaxation.

Yilan's waters tell countless stories. Between hot springs and cold springs, farm-fresh produce and sustainable agriculture, this naturally abundant region sits just an hour from Taipei. For anyone seeking a landscape where ecology and community thrive together, Yilan awaits.