Taiwan's countryside harbors indigenous herbs like baihua zisu (white-flowered perilla, Perilla frutescens) and niuqiao xiangmao (a wild lemongrass variety), which emit rich, unmistakable fragrances. Tribal communities have long cultivated plants such as shandi cong (mountain scallion), whose entire plant is edible, and kenaw, as the Amis people call it (xiao yangcong, Allium macrostemon), which delivers a sharper, more pungent bite than Welsh onion. These aromatics have emerged from the forests and, through the skilled hands of Taiwan's chefs, ascended to the world stage as distinctive flavors representing the island.

Taiwan's native edible plants grow across diverse mountain ecosystems, each telling stories of indigenous ancestral knowledge. The Atayal people, Taiwan's most widely distributed indigenous group, inhabit mountainous regions spanning seven administrative areas—New Taipei City, Taoyuan City, Hsinchu County, Miaoli County, Taichung City, Nantou County, and Yilan County. Throughout these territories, clusters of maqaw (mountain pepper) flourish naturally.

Maqaw (mountain pepper) has become nearly synonymous with Atayal cuisine. Shan rougui (wild cinnamon, Cinnamomum insulari-montanum) connects deeply with multiple tribes. The Bunun people, dwelling along both flanks of the Central Mountain Range at elevations between 500 and 1,500 meters, have incorporated it into their traditional dishes for generations. The Amis people of the Coastal Mountain Range, meanwhile, use its aromatic leaves as a flavoring paired with betel nut, while its lemony-scented seeds are prized for making flavorful sauces. These plants intertwine deeply with local cultures; different indigenous groups utilize each species in distinct ways, cultivating unique culinary traditions that reflect their relationship with the land.

Maqaw in Atayal—mountain pepper (Litsea cubeba)—translates to "full of vitality, ever-renewing life" and is affectionately known as "black pearls of the mountain forest. " (Image: iStock)

Native Aromatics: Culinary Wisdom Rooted in the Land

Tana, as the Atayal people call it (or kyana'kk in Paiwan), is known in Chinese as ci cong (prickly ash, Zanthoxylum ailanthoides). This thorny shrub has a storied past—ancient practitioners used its young leaf juice to treat colds and malaria. Today, this medicinal plant has become an essential aromatic in Taiwan's indigenous cuisines. Used much like cilantro is used elsewhere in Taiwan, it's simmered with fish or chicken in soups, scrambled into eggs, and employed as a substitute for common pepper—though its fragrance proves far more vibrant.

In Bunun mythology, the plant carries profound significance. A legend tells of the Isbabanal clan nearly driven to extinction by kaviiad (the hundred-pacer viper, literally "good friend" in Bunun). According to the story, one of two survivors escaped death by hiding in a prickly ash tree; the sharp thorns covering its trunk kept the serpent at bay, allowing the tribesman to preserve his life—and with it, his people's future.

East Meets West: Creative Flavors from Taiwan's Native Pantry

Taiwan's native plants and aromatics shine not only in tribal communities but have also found their way into contemporary bakeries. Wu Pao-Chun, an internationally acclaimed Taiwanese baker, incorporates indigenous ingredients—including millet, sorghum, tana (prickly ash), Taiwan xiangmeng (flat lemon, Citrus depressa), shan rougui (wild cinnamon), and mountain celery (Cryptotaenia japonica)—into breads that express distinctly local flavors.

Though Taiwan boasts over a hundred native millet varieties, the market today relies heavily on imports. Indigenous peoples have cultivated millet since ancient times, making it a staple grain; among the Seediq people, a full granary signified wealth and prosperity. As demand declined in the modern era, millet culture gradually faded. In recent years, however, it has become a focus of Taiwan's agricultural revival, with millet bamboo rice appearing frequently at holiday markets.

Maqaw (Mountain Pepper)

Maqaw in Atayal—mountain pepper (Litsea cubeba)—translates to "full of vitality, ever-renewing life." Nicknamed "black pearls of the mountain forest," these tiny peppercorns were used by tribes as a salt substitute to enhance flavor in an era before refrigeration, serving as nature's preservative. This tradition endures today, with maqaw employed as a seasoning for braised pork, cured meats, and flying fish roe.

Wild-harvested millet adds a distinctive character to bread. When fermented into a starter and mixed with flour, it enhances the dough’s glutinous properties. The resulting loaves display remarkable elasticity. Prickly ash incorporated into European-style breads delivers a fragrance comparable to fresh pepper—a perfect complement to the smoky, savory notes of German sausages or Spanish chorizo.

Artisanal breads incorporating local Taiwanese flavors have garnered international acclaim in recent years. (Image: iStock)


Though sumac (Taiwan's native Rhus chinensis, a close relative of Mediterranean sumac) has emerged as a novel native spice in Taiwan, prized for bringing a plum-like tartness to dishes, it has been used in Mediterranean cuisine for over a thousand years. Taiwan's indigenous communities use Roxburgh sumac, native to forested foothills below 2,000 meters, as a salt substitute for curing meat—a practice remarkably similar to Middle Eastern uses of sumac in dishes like Turkish kebabs.

Formosan beard grass (Taiwan you mang, Eccoilopus formosanus), a species endemic to Taiwan, has ascended to fine-dining tables as the latest superfood sensation. This grain, rich in nutrients and natural oils, was once scattered across the island in obscurity. Austronesian prehistoric inhabitants of southern Taiwan began cultivating it, gradually domesticating it into the resilient grain we know today. Hardier than other crops, it served as a life-saving grain during droughts.

As rice culture flourished, however, Formosan beard grass was gradually displaced and nearly vanished from tribal communities. It was rediscovered only through years of dedicated research by Dr. Hsing Yue-Ie of Academia Sinica's Institute of Plant and Microbial Biology and Hsu Tzu-Fu, an educator and field researcher. These distinctive native aromatics and herbs serve as culinary ambassadors for Taiwan. They enrich the island's biodiversity while providing local chefs with boundless inspiration, spurring ecological exploration and innovative flavor profiles.

Roxburgh sumac, native to forested foothills below 2,000 meters, serves as a salt substitute commonly used in cured meat dishes. (Image: Sun-Link-Sea Nature Center)