The many-colored abalone (Haliotis diversicolor)—known in Taiwan as nine-hole abalone (jiu kong luo, 九孔螺)—bears a reddish-brown shell with a pearlescent luster. In traditional Chinese medicine, this shell is called shi jue ming (石決明). The mollusk's distinctive name derives from the seven to ten holes puncturing its otherwise flat shell—openings that function as breathing and excretion ports. In Chinese, the character for “nine” can symbolize “many,” making this an apt name for the abalone.

Since the 1980s, many-colored abalone cultivation has expanded gradually along Taiwan's coasts. Gongliao District in New Taipei City emerged as the center of this industry, its intertidal zones and water-quality conditions proving ideal for farming.

Smaller than other abalone species, many-colored abalones deliver a firm, chewy bite. They have been a staple of Taiwan's coastal cuisine for generations, gracing both family tables and festival celebrations in fishing villages throughout northeastern Taiwan. Many-colored abalones are prepared lu-braised in seasoned soy broth, stir-fried with garlic and chili, steamed with ginger and rice wine, or served in soup.

From Boom to Bust—and Revival

Gongliao District once dominated many-colored abalone cultivation. With clearly defined roles among farmers and a thriving market, production peaked around 2000, reaching nearly 2,500 metric tons. Yet the industry's fortunes reversed sharply. Viral and bacterial infections, compounded by environmental stress, decimated farmed populations. Production plummeted to fewer than 80 metric tons, and many farmers suffered total losses, eventually abandoning the trade.

In recent years, government and fishing cooperative initiatives have gradually revived the industry. New Taipei City and the Gongliao District Fishermen's Association launched the Gongliao Abalone (貢寮鮑) brand, rebuilding consumer trust through rigorous testing and certification. The cooperative has also promoted farm tourism, combining many-colored abalone cultivation experiences with local cuisine to create new economic value for the sector.

Early cultivation practices relied on extensive farming—minimal labor and equipment investment, with production dependent largely on natural environmental conditions. These methods had measurable ecological impacts. In recent years, increasing numbers of farmers have adopted more environmentally conscious techniques, including controlling stocking density and implementing comprehensive water-quality monitoring to protect both abalone health and the balance of the marine ecosystem.