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鴨─升級版的品牌鴨問市

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家禽中,鴨肉不及雞肉普及,在一般的大超市中很難買到。然而,特定食材卻非牠不可:冬天進補要吃薑母鴨;蛋黃酥、皮蛋要用鴨蛋;炒菜中的各種「金沙」系列也是非鴨不可。

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些料理必須用鴨肉,有的是說得出道理的:鴨蛋的蛋殼較厚不易破,且蛋黃較大,製成的鹹蛋黃品質相對穩定、有份量感。有的不一定說得出道理,為什麼鴨肉就一定比雞肉補?鴨肉在火鍋中耐燉,那換成土雞肉不就行了嗎?但民間約定俗成就是要吃薑母鴨,沒得討論。

價格較高的鴨肉,占有一定的市場,業者也不斷推出升級版的鴨:知名的「櫻桃鴨」,是自北京鴨育種改良而來,近年引入台灣養殖,之所以稱為「櫻桃鴨」是因為由全球最大肉鴨品牌、位在英國櫻桃谷的「櫻桃谷牧場」所育成。 

▋櫻桃鴨、玫瑰鴨、是美鴨、玉露鴨 

彰化是養鴨大縣之一,除了主打櫻桃鴨的販售,並延伸出「玫瑰鴨」、「是美鴨」、「玉露鴨」等不同肉質特色的鴨搶攻市場。 

台灣養殖、食用鴨肉的歷史悠久,於清代《台灣通史》即有記載番鴨的存在。台灣街市間更有諸多不同的鴨肉料理,常見的如夜市的鴨賞、鴨翅;從大陸傳來的烤鴨,也早已融入台灣生活的日常。 

台灣食用鴨的歷史約有300多年,於《台灣通志》已記載了數種鴨類:番鴨、盧鴨等,如今台灣所飼養之鴨可分為兩類:食用菜鴨和蛋鴨。其中食用菜鴨包括:改鴨、北京鴨、番鴨及土番鴨等品種;蛋鴨則以褐色菜鴨為主。 

過往養鴨亦是台灣農村常見之風景。1965年自台灣電影《養鴨人家》中,即可窺見台灣早年養鴨之盛大情況。現今台灣的鴨類飼養則以雲林、屏東、彰化為主,並以土番鴨為主要飼養品種。 

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