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碗粿─台南派勢力最大

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碗粿為盛行於台灣、大陸華南、粵東等地的傳統米食,因製作過程需放置於碗中成型而得名。使用在來米(適宜製作加工米食的硬秈稻米)、適宜製作加工米食的硬秈稻米為主原料;若以新米製作,碗粿口感偏軟糊,故一般會使用儲放一年以上「陳化」的舊米製作,有的甚至會使用兩、三年的舊米,這樣碗粿口感較為Q彈。

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粽子一樣,台灣的碗粿主要分南、北兩派,黑碗粿及白碗粿二種。南部派勢力較大。以台南為主的南部碗粿,作法為將肉燥加入米漿中,以溫熱水拌勻後加入醬油調味兼著色,再倒入有香菇、蛋黃、豬肉塊的碗中炊煮,其粿體色澤較深,故稱為黑碗粿。

▋必比登名店用溫體豬、火燒蝦 

在台南小吃大街國華街上的「一味品碗粿」,入選2022年米其林必比登,只賣碗粿及虱目魚羹,使用肉燥、溫體豬、火燒蝦及自製秘醬。 

圓山飯店曾示範過料理國宴碗粿,秘訣包括:在來米粉中加入太白粉、將部分拌料澆上米漿蒸15分鐘,先入味,放入剩餘拌料,再蒸10分鐘,美觀兼二次入味。 

北台灣碗粿承襲客家「水粄」製作方式,直接將在來米漿炊蒸定型,再鋪上炒香的菜脯、豆乾、蒜末、碎肉等,粿體純白,故稱為白碗粿。碗粿除鹹食外,客家水粄另有甜碗粿版本,以米漿加入黑糖蒸熟。 

碗粿首重其Q彈的口感,由於剛炊蒸好的碗粿仍偏溼軟,因而傳統上不會馬上食用,需先放涼,或甚至放至翌日才食用,稱作「隔夜粿」。 

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