◤Text / iSee Taiwan Foundation Editorial Team
Miaoli County, located in northwestern Taiwan, has a population of approximately 530,000. The county's name derives from "Maoli," the term used by the Taokas tribe of the Plains Indigenous peoples who originally inhabited this area; in their language, it meant "flatland." Despite this designation, Miaoli County features predominantly hilly terrain, with many mountains and few plains. As a major agricultural county in northern Taiwan, Miaoli also boasts a well-developed ceramics industry. The county is home to several kilns with over a century of history; from the 1970s through the 1980s, Miaoli earned renown throughout Taiwan as the home of decorative ceramics.
Tung Blossoms Dance Across the Mountains in May
During the Qing Dynasty, settlers crossed the sea to Taiwan. Among them, many Hakka people moved into mountainous areas, with a significant number migrating to the hilly regions of Hsinchu and Miaoli to cultivate the land. Today, Miaoli still has numerous Hakka villages. During the Japanese colonial period, the Nanzhuang Incident—a major anti-Japanese resistance event—drastically reduced the population of the local Saisiyat indigenous people. Combined with the influence of Hakka and Hoklo cultures, traditional Saisiyat culture has been rapidly disappearing. In terms of cuisine, Miaoli's Hakka food is remarkably authentic. From Hakka ban tiao (flat rice noodles) and Hakka stir-fry (Hakka xiao chao) to preserved mustard greens and pork tripe soup, and even specialties like tonggan cha, lei cha (grounded tea), and duqi bing (belly button biscuits), visitors can taste traditional Hakka flavors throughout Miaoli.
Miaoli has also vigorously promoted tourism activities. The "Romantic Route 3" initiative encourages leisurely travel through Taiwan; the route winds through Miaoli and features comfortable and well-maintained cycling paths. Historically, tung trees were an important economic crop, widely planted along Route 3. The blossoms bloom in May, making it an ideal time to visit Miaoli. Beyond experiencing cycling through Miaoli's mountains and hills, visitors can also enjoy the slow living ethos that distinguishes this region from other northern cities, along with the romance of tung blossoms and the rich, mellow flavors of Hakka cuisine.
