Connoisseurs identify three distinct flavor profiles in aged Kinmen kaoliang: ginseng, grape, and bubble glue—with ginseng being the rarest. According to Wine & Spirits Digest, the ginseng-flavored kaoliang emerged from a "beautiful accident in brewing," appearing only in the 1977 and 2002 vintages. Even the distillery's master brewers remain puzzled by its origins. These particular vintages are now the most coveted on the market.

Kinmen, Matsu, and Yushan aged kaoliang strike gold at world spirits competitions

In 2024, Kinmen kaoliang marked its ninth consecutive year winning gold at the world's top five spirits competitions. Not to be outdone, Matsu's "88 Tunnel" series aged kaoliang and Taiwan Tobacco & Liquor's Yushan aged kaoliang have also secured gold at these major competitions.

The veteran brand "Kinmen Kaoliang Liquor" traces its origins to 1949, when the Nationalist government relocated to Taiwan and Kinmen officially became a frontline battlefield. Legend has it that in 1951, General Hu Lian, then Commander of the Kinmen Defense Command, was so impressed after tasting kaoliang privately brewed by local shopkeeper Ye Huacheng that he ordered the establishment of Kinmen Distillery in 1952. With the stationed troops requiring substantial provisions and importing over 100,000 bottles of liquor annually from Taiwan, General Hu pursued self-sufficiency with the guiding principle: "drink kaoliang liquor, eat white rice, burn kaoliang stalks." He encouraged local farmers to grow kaoliang for the distillery with the incentive of "one catty (approximately 600 grams) of rice for one catty of kaoliang."

Kaoliang became wildly popular, generating crucial economic revenue for Kinmen. After the island's military restrictions lifted and tourism development took off, it evolved into an internationally recognized brand. Joined by newcomers Matsu and Yushan, Taiwan's kaoliang now shines on the world stage.

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