Bluefin Tuna's Hometown: Donggang──Experts' Checklist: Body, Belly, Scales

◤Text by Kao Ching-Yu

Pingtung's Donggang is renowned for its celebrated "Three Treasures": sakura shrimp, mullet roe, and bluefin tuna—names familiar to every Taiwanese food lover.

Sakura shrimp, which locals call "flower shells," are found only in the waters around Taiwan's Donggang and in Japan's Suruga Bay. The harvesting season runs from November through May, and since the shrimp are deep-sea dwellers, they remain unpolluted and packed with nutrients, making them a market favorite.

Mullet roe boasts rich oils and delicate, plump eggs. Salt-cured, pressed, and air-dried, it develops an intense flavor with a satisfying chewiness—salty yet sweet, leaving a lingering fragrance on the palate.

The crown jewel of the three treasures is bluefin tuna. Each year from April to June, these magnificent fish ride the Kuroshio Current northward from equatorial waters. The current carries them to spawn in the seas around Taiwan's southern Lanyu (also known as Orchid Island) and Green Island, both off southeastern Taiwan, and near Okinawa. During this mating season, the tuna are at their peak—incredibly active, with firm, oil-rich flesh in prime condition.

▋A Unique Fishing Culture: The Auction Process

Besides selecting and savoring fresh seafood, many visitors come to Taiwan’s major fishing ports specifically to witness the auctions. When sea conditions are favorable, fishing boats begin returning to port around 3 a.m., finishing their unloading by midday and preparing for the 1 p.m. fish auction. Donggang's famous "Jiazhen Seafood Restaurant" has built its reputation on purchasing the season's first bluefin tuna catch each year, drawing gourmets and tourists alike to witness this annual spectacle.

The fish trade operates at a highly professional level, restricting participation in the bidding to licensed dealers. During bluefin season, successful tuna boats hoist their catch onto the vessels and transport it to the fish market, where each tuna is tagged with the number of the boat or name of the captain. Fishermen's association staff then attach sales slips and register the details.

▏Bluefin tuna tagged with vessel numbers or captains' names attract intense bidding from licensed dealers. (Photo source: Kao Ching-Yu)

During this process, potential buyers examine their preferred tuna by inserting a thin metal tube into the tail area, extracting a small sample to assess the marbling and quality. With individual bluefin often commanding hundreds of thousands of New Taiwan dollars, buyers must choose with extreme care—a poor-quality fish can mean devastating losses.

Experts read the skin and scales for clues: if a bluefin's belly and tail scales have turned pale, the fish was already dead when caught. Clear, distinct patterns on the belly and tail skin indicate the fish was alive when hooked. A third condition—scales that are half-white, half-patterned—means the fish was caught alive but died shortly after.

Three key criteria are looked for in the shape of the body: a full tail, thick belly, and plump, rounded form all signal superior quality.

The auction proceeds fish by fish. The auctioneer approaches each specimen with a commanding presence and animated expression, using experience to set the opening bid before buyers begin competing. The auctioneer reads buyers' eyes and subtle gestures to guide the bidding process.

Once a sale is finalized, the winning bidder places their company tag on the fish while the auctioneer marks the price per kilogram. Immediately after the sale, workers rush to clear crushed ice from the fish's belly and gills before weighing it on the scale. The auction clerk records the weight, price, and buyer-seller details, after which the purchaser transports their prize for processing.

▋Savoring the Ocean's “Wagyu”

Fish during breeding season typically reach their peak nutritional value. As a large species, bluefin tuna offers abundant edible portions, and their constant ocean migrations require vast oil reserves for energy, resulting in tender, elastic flesh with exceptional flavor. Market prices vary significantly by cut.

The premium cut runs from belly to gills, known as "otoro" or "big belly." This prized section boasts rich marbling and silky texture in pale pink hues, with pristine white fat distributed like elegant marble veins. This is the most delicious and expensive part of the fish, typically served as sashimi. It melts on the tongue with an intoxicating aroma.

Next comes the "chutoro" or "medium belly," stretching from mid-belly to tail. With slightly less fat but high omega-3 fatty acid DHA content, it ranks as premium-grade. Finally, the back meat contains minimal fat, displays a vibrant red color, and is rich in another omega-3 fatty acid, EPA. Truly every part is a treasure.

▏Bluefin tuna sashimi with fine marbling is a favorite among gourmets. (Photo source: Kao Ching-Yu)

When bluefin season arrives each year, Donggang hosts its grand Bluefin Tuna Festival, officially launching the season. Gourmets journey from across the island to taste the legendary "wagyu of the sea" at its source. Local seafood restaurants roll up their sleeves, crafting diverse bluefin preparations. The ultimate "36-Course Bluefin Feast" elevates this local delicacy to world-class cuisine status.

▋Fish Markets and Seafood Streets: Getting Up Close with Bluefin's Magic

Where can visitors experience the magic of bluefin tuna in Donggang? The town has multiple daily fish markets, and locals are notoriously discerning about seafood. Succeeding as a seafood restaurant in Donggang requires developing signature specialties and having a distinct culinary flair. Only then will the restaurant stand the test of time.

The various seafood stalls within the local "Huaqiao Market" offer their own carefully selected catch and will also cook seafood that visitors have purchased fresh from the harbor, letting customers choose their preferred preparation style. This option suits small groups of friends or families out to enjoy a casual meal together.

Donggang's famous seafood street draws local residents who know where to find the best. Guangfu Street sits near the fishing port, and when boats return early in the afternoon, much of the fresh catch sells directly on the street. Hesitate and you'll miss out. Each restaurant cultivates relationships with specific fishing boats and anglers, so diners on Guangfu Street often have the chance to take up a limited-time, premium offer. Finding these limited catches is part of the charm.

Bluefin tuna fishing operates under strict quota controls by the Donggang District Fishermen's Association. These measures not only preserve fishery resources for sustainable development but align with the UN's Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) for ocean sustainability, establishing Taiwan as a model for marine environmental protection.

Note: Names of varieties, publications, and individuals without established English equivalents are rendered using pinyin transliteration; refer to the original Chinese text for authoritative spellings.