Run bing trace their origins to the Spring and Autumn period and Warring States periods, when people would prepare offerings of five pungent vegetables—scallions, garlic, chives, cilantro, and turnip greens—then wrap them in thin flour wrappers after ritual ceremonies. This practice, believed to stimulate the five organs for health benefits, was called chun bing and became the ancestor of both Taiwanese run bing and Southeast Asian spring rolls, eventually spreading throughout the region.

Over time, run bing became one of the festive foods of Fujian and Taiwan. Across different regions of southern Fujian, the fillings vary so dramatically that, as food writer Chen Ching-yi once observed: run bing are like wordless genealogies—you can read a person's origins through their ingredients.

South prefers sweet, north prefers fresh

Today's Taiwanese run bing contains not only the traditional five pungent vegetables but also carrots, bean sprouts, cabbage, and other ingredients for richer textures. Like rice dumplings, they show distinct north-south variations in both timing and taste. Northern Taiwan enjoys them during year-end banquets and before Lunar New Year, while the south eats them before Qingming Festival.

Flavorwise, run bing vendors are ubiquitous in night markets and street stalls. Southern versions lean sweet, featuring not just peanut powder but also sugar and oil noodles. Northern Taiwan favors a cleaner taste, with crispy egg bits and braised pork as essential elements. Each region has its preferences—fortunately, unlike rice dumplings, run bing hasn't sparked any great north-south culinary wars.

After spreading to Southeast Asia, spring rolls evolved into countless variations, including fried versions that became regional staples. Vietnam's fresh spring rolls use rice paper instead of wheat wrappers, filled with shrimp and Thai basil, served with sweet-and-sour chili sauce—a distinctive style all their own.